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Further evidence of my love of prints over solids... @grainlinestudio #portsidetravelset duffle with burgundy leather and canvas outer, @cottonandsteel lining, printed at 80% for the perfect 1-2 day trip size! Just waiting for some matching webbing for a long strap. #sewphotohop

A photo posted by Mika (@mikamakesit) on Sep 5, 2016 at 1:37pm PDT

Apparently I blinked and 2.5 years passed since my last post! Must have something to do with the job I started right around that time... I didn't stop sewing though. I'm not planning on blogging again any time soon, but I am on instagram now, as @mikamakesit. Come find me!

FO: Layer Cake Plantain Tee

I'm back with my latest Plantain tee!

I am really enjoying the versatility of this pattern... just like I did with Colette's Laurel, I am planning on multiple versions.  This one is a sweater knit with poly crinkle chiffon at the hem.

I changed the hem of the tee to a high-low one, and the chiffon is just a rectangle the width of the fabric and about 8" tall.  I folded it over to create the two layers, and hemmed it by folding the edge up by about 1/2", then doing a small zigzag over the fold and trimming the excess fabric.  I'm very pleased with this method (which, fingers crossed, is holding secure so far) because it didn't interfere as much with the drape of the fabric as all of the other methods I tried.  Plus, it was relatively quick - I had no interest in spending hours hemming.  I gathered the rectangle to fit the sweater hem, basted it in, and then secured the two together while hemming with a double needle.

Other than that, the only changes I made from last time were my forward shoulder adjustment (which worked, YAY), and sewing the neckline with the prescribed 5/8" SA for a narrower binding.  I still used 3/8" SAs for the rest of the tee, since this sweater knit has very little stretch and I needed the extra room.

This shirt helps to fill the gap in my wardrobe for long sleeved items to wear with pants; with the frigid weather we've been having in NY, tights just have not been cutting it and my clothing options have shrunk considerably.  So pleased to add this to the rotation!

QUICK FACTS
Fabric: Sweater knit from (now closed?) Jem Fabrics Warehouse, & poly crinkle chiffon from Fabric.com
Pattern: Plantain t-shirt from Deer and Doe
Modifications: High-low hem and chiffon ruffle

FO: A Plantain Tee

When I saw Deer & Doe's new Plantain tee pattern, I knew it would make a great basic.  Plus it's free!

Ugh... iPhone photos. :(

I made up this top as a muslin.  The fabric has been sitting on my shelf for quite a while, one of those prints that I loved online but felt less pleased with in-person.  It's actually been surprising that I've found myself reaching for it this week, which I think is a good sign for my relationship with this pattern.

This is a size 36, sewn with 3/8" seams rather than the 5/8" called for.  I prefer 3/8" on knits, and I was between sizes so this gave me the extra room I needed.  I do wish the sleeves were a little bit more fitted, so I think I'll try either altering the pattern to fit the sleeves from my beloved Jalie 2921, or sewing with the intended 5/8" SA for a closer fit.  I also definitely need a forward shoulder adjustment on this... the shoulder seam moves back a good 1/2-3/4" while I'm wearing it.

As for future versions, I'm definitely making one with this fox print from Girl Charlee:

I've also got a sweater knit & chiffon combo idea, and a white tee with some fabric paint embellishment.  Anyone else making a Plantain?

QUICK FACTS
Fabric: Rayon/poly knit (I think) from Fabric.com
Pattern: Plantain t-shirt from Deer & Doe
Mods: 3/8" SA

FO: Lady Lumberjack Archer

Archer #2! (#1 here.)

I'm pretty pleased with this one, though style-wise it's pretty different from what I usually wear.  I started this right after Christmas, and just could not get myself to go to the store to buy matching thread and enough matching buttons.  The cut out pieces lay neglected until I finally ventured out over the weekend to the closest store to me that stocks thread.  The 25 minute walk took about 45 minutes because people in my neighborhood seem to have decided not to shovel their sidewalks or put down salt.  I may as well have put on some ice skates and skated over.  Next time.

Anyway, armed with matching thread and buttons, I sewed this up yesterday.  Other than a broken needle when I was trying to topstitch through a bazillion layers of flannel and a small error due to overzealous seam allowance trimming, it went together without a hitch.  I put the collar together per Andrea's tutorial, though I think Jen's method also works well.  I seem to get better top stitching results with Jen's instructions, and better button placket/collar stand alignment with Andrea's.  I also did faux flat felled seams on the armscye and side seams.

The only other construction change I made was to form the hem of the button placket by folding the placket to the shirt right sides together first, sewing across the bottom at the hemline, turning right side out, and then folding the rest of the hem up as usual.  It's a little tricky to explain, but it's very similar to Tasia's tutorial here for the Minoru jacket.  I prefer this method because I think it reduces bulk at the CF hem, and everything lays nice and flat.

I cut this in a 2, one size down from last time.  There is still plenty of ease, which I don't mind for a comfy, casual shirt.  Next time I may try folding out the pleat at the CB and adding a couple of fish eye darts for a more fitted version.  I also lengthened it by 1.5", since I wanted to wear this with my fake pants - essentially glorified ponte knit leggings, so I feel more comfortable in them when my butt is covered.

My only regret is not cutting the cuffs on the bias, to match the button placket and yoke.  Oh well.  This shirt will serve me well during this particularly cold winter we've been having.  Unfortunately the fabric is sometimes too warm for my overheated NYC apartment, but at least outside I will be nice and toasty.

QUICK FACTS
Fabric: Plaid cotton flannel from Fabric Mart
Pattern: Grainline Archer
Size: 2, lengthened by 1.5"
Mods: Bias-cut placket and yoke.

Anyone else making anything cozy to see you through the winter?

New Look for the New Year

I spent the morning making some exciting (well, for me!) formatting changes to the blog... The old format is below for reference.

With the assistance of PicMonkey and Paint, plus a little Google-fu, I made some social media icons and also changed a bunch of more boring aesthetic things.  Let me know if you stumble upon anything that doesn't work! My next big project is getting all of my projects up on Flickr (I got lazy and started using Picasa) but that sounds sooooo boring.

I'll be back soon with some finished projects, I hope.  I have 4-5 things in progress, and seem to be incapable of finishing any of them.

Top 5: Unblogged Projects

HELLO, WORLD! It's been a while! Life happened, you know? And it's still happening.  But I decided new year = new blogging conviction.  So here I am.  I'm jumping on the Top 5 list bandwagon again, but this time with my Top 5 unblogged projects.  I have quite the backlog of projects going, and some of my favorite makes of this year are from the last few months.  Unfortunately only I got through 3 photos before I got sick (I'll be celebrating the new year in style with jello and Gatorade) so I can only offer hanger photos for the last two.  Here we go...



1. Wanna-be Archer

So I made this top based off of a vintage pattern, when I was being stubborn about buying the Archer shirt pattern.  Due to an unfortunate fabric slicing incident when I was trimming the seam allowances with my rotary cutter, it is admittedly a tiny bit more fitted than I had envisioned and consequently gapes a tiny bit at the front.  I wore it a lot in the late summer though, and the rayon is so soft and comfy.  I used leftover challis for the fronts from this dress, and solid black rayon for the yoke, back, and buttonband. The pearl snaps were a nightmare to put in, but I finally got them to stick and haven't had any trouble since.

2. Floral Explosion Archer

Then I gave in and bought the Archer pattern, and made this shirt from a cotton floral.  The cotton is a little stiffer than I would prefer for a shirt with this much ease - I felt a little lost in it when I first made it up, and decided to cinch it at the CB with loops and a couple of buttons.  I don't love how this makes the back fall, but it does improve the appearance from the front.  This isn't a garment I love on it's own - a little too much small floral for my liking.  I do wear it a fair amount layered under sweaters though, and enjoy the floral in smaller doses.  And I know I need to make more Archers in drapey fabric, a la Andrea, because that's more up my alley.  I may also try cutting a 2 instead of a 4.  I think I was so ecstatic to see my bust AND waist in the same size column that I just went for it. 

3. Bomb Girls Shirt Dress

I made this dress way back in June.  It began its life as a Saltspring dress from Sewaholic, but the top was a little too voluminous for my liking.  So, I hacked off the skirt and made up a new bodice based on Simplicity 4171, nipping the pattern in at the waist.  The fabric is rayon with a crepe-like texture (which I suspect contributed to the extra-voluminous Saltspring bodice).  I love the vintage-y look of this dress, and that it works well with tights in fall or without in summer.  It contains all of my favorite things - a slightly full skirt, fitted waist, side seam pockets, metal buttons, a collar, cute sleeves, and rayon!  

4. Floral Fields Shirt Dress

Another shirt dress, and more rayon! I used Simplicity 2403, with a gathered rectangle for the skirt and the sleeves from Colette Laurel. This one also got a ton of wear, though it is not without its issues.  The waist is a tiny bit big, and the buttons are unevenly spaced.  I always forget if the buttonhole ends up below where you start or above, and I got it wrong here.  The rayon was too lightweight to rip out the stitches, so I left it.  The floral fabric, which I love because I can wear any color of tights with this dress, is not in the best shape - it was a remnant from Etsy and in a couple of places I had to fuse a little interfacing to the back where holes were developing.  But it's so nice and soft and drapey that I will wear it until it disintegrates.

5. Dogstooth Laurel

Another Colette Laurel, one that saw a lot of wear for work once tights weather rolled around.  I added a little fake pocket to the front.  The dogstooth fabric is a woven that feels spongey and stretches like a knit.  The black is doubleknit.  At some point I would love to re-cut the sleeves, because they flare out towards the bottom in a way I don't like (and it shows through when I put a sweater on).  A small complaint though, and an easy fix.

All in all it's been a good year.  I'm looking forward to new beginnings in 2014, and hopefully lots of sewing! Happy New Year!

FO: My Bombshell!

My first swimsuit! AND it's still in one piece after two days at the beach. What more could a girl ask for?

I used the Bombshell pattern, which is all over the internet these days - and for good reason.  It's a great pattern, very flattering and comfortable.  It took a little experimenting to find the best way to sew the seams using my machine - the pattern calls for a zigzag to sew the side and back seams, but it didn't work well for me and I ended up using an overedge stitch instead.

I made View B, the only change being to cut across the top of the halter lining to allow me to slip the cups in.  All of my purchased swimsuits have removable cups, and I like this because it means I don't have to buy new ones for every suit.  Next time I may do a full lining layer and then add a second partial one, so that the cups sit between the two.

Sewing this suit gave me the swimsuit sewing bug.  They're such a good, quick project.  I hardly ever make it to the beach and have absolutely no reason to make another suit, but I really want a two-piece Bombshell! I have a ton of fabric left too, so why not?

QUICK FACTS:
Fabric: Lining and fabric from Spandex House/Spandex World (I bought one at each and can't remember which was which.)
Pattern: Bombshell by Closet Case Files

FO: Chantilly Numero Dos

Whoops... guess I disappeared for a little bit.  Blogging is one of the few things in life that you don't have to do if you don't feel like it, and to be honest I just didn't feel like it! I'm back on the wagon now though.  And while I wasn't blogging for the last few weeks, I did sew lots!

Sorry, these photos are a little dark...

To say this dress was a challenge would be an understatement.  To start, I had just over 2 yards of this 54" wide fabric, a good chunk less than what's called for.  I've generally found Colette's yardage generous, so I laid it out to see what I could do.  I was quite pleased to find that I could make everything fit comfortably, despite the directional print and my efforts to make everything symmetrical.  So I cut everything out, interfaced, blah blah, and then noticed two scraps of paper on the floor behind my table.  Pattern pieces I had forgotten about, of course.  Lovely.  I juuuuust barely made it work with the leftover bits of fabric, but had to add a seam at the CB of the neckline.  Fortunately the print hides it well.

Then I was working on the side seams, and could not for the life of me figure out which side the zip was supposed to go on.  First I did the wrong side on the lining, right side on the shell, then I ripped out the shell and realized I should have ripped out the lining, and it went on and on and on.  I must have gone through every possible combination at least 3 times.

Then my sewing machine broke! The dress sat halfway done for weeks, until my new machine came and I could finally finish it up.

My first Chantilly is one of my favorite me-mades, so it's hard to love this one as much.  Poofy dresses like this, as fun as they are to wear, spend a lot of time languishing in my closet since they would not fly at work.  This one will go into the weekend rotation though; the lightweight cotton makes it a great comfy summer dress.

QUICK FACTS
Fabric: Cotton voile print from Fabric.com, cotton voile lining from P&S Fabrics (my go-to for cheap white cotton voile in NYC).
Pattern: Colette Chantilly

I can sew again!

After two and a half very long weeks, I finally have a working sewing machine! To refresh your memory, the new-ish refurbished Janome I had bought a little under two years ago died at the end of May.  After reading all of your advice on my plea for help post, as well as a lot of other advice around the internet, I settled on finding an old but reliable machine on eBay.  I bought the first one (yes, the first one) about 10 days ago.

Image Source (NOT who I tried to buy from...)

It was a Viking Husqvarna 6440.  It was also, as it turns out, not quite in "excellent working/like new condition" as described.  I'm sure it had its fair share of problems before it shipped, and the really terrible packing job didn't help.  Scrunched up plastic bags + one layer of bubble wrap + 2 old blankets does not equal safe packing! Cracked case, the cam was stuck, stitch width knob nearly impossible to turn, and, the real kicker, it only worked in reverse.  Internet research said the mechanical issues can usually be fixed at home with lots of patience and work or in a shop for lots of money, neither one of which was appealing.  So, I returned it.  Because of the description/packing issues (and a 14 day return policy anyway), the seller didn't argue.

On Wednesday I went back on the hunt and picked out a second machine.  This time, I was careful to check the feedback.  While the first seller I purchased from had 100% positive feedback, what he did not have was feedback on any sewing machines he had sold.  The next seller I purchased from had sold multiple machines in the last month, all with good reviews.

The second (and - fingers crossed - final) machine, a Kenmore 158.19411, came on Friday.  I love it! The machines in this series have a reputation for being workhorses, and this definitely fits that description.  It's solid, all metal, and feels like you could drop it and damage the floor before hurting the machine (not that I'm going to try that).  It handles multiple layers with ease, has all the basic stitch functions I need, and came with a buttonholer attachment that makes the most gorgeous buttonholes.  We're still getting acquainted, but I think this will be a long term relationship!

This forced break from sewing taught me one thing: I NEED TO SEW.  I was not a happy person the past few weeks. I'll be back soon with some new FOs!

Advice Needed: Machine Woes

Image from overstock.com

So my sewing machine started making some pretty ugly noises yesterday, not running properly, very slow, grinding sounds, etc.  It's a Janome 11590 aka Kenmore 16231, and I bought it refurbished from Ebay almost 2 years ago.  I know that's not the best way to go with a machine, but I did do my homework on the model, and I will admit to being drawn to a modern machine, having learned on a 1970s Singer.  Turning a knob for different stitches was so exciting! Plus the price was right.
Anywho, reviews generally on this machine are pretty good.  I liked it until it stopped working.  My problem is in the numbers:

• Cost to fix, per the repair guy: $105 prepaid or $130 to pay after the repair.  Seems to be motor issues, other small part problems.
• Cost I paid for the machine: $140
• Cost of extra feet, accessories I've purchased: $50

My options, as I see them and given my non-rich status:

1. Pay for the repair.  I've put money into the accessories, and there's a good chance the machine won't have any issues for a while after this.  The new model of this machine is $300.  
2. Look for a reconditioned vintage machine, built to last.  (Any recommendations for places to look, online or in NYC? Best models for this?)
3. Spend $150 on a different new/refurbished machine, preferably Janome so that I don't need to buy a new walking foot, etc.  I hate feeling like such a "consumer" getting rid of something that can be fixed and buying something new again... but I also hate the idea of spending almost as much as I paid for the machine to get it fixed! 
4. Make an investment (as much as my wallet allows, which is not much) and spend $200-$250 on a new machine with extra features, better build. There aren't any features I can think of that I would like to have, except for more buttonhole options.  But a more reliable machine would be good.  

What would you do? If you think my current machine isn't worth repairing, do you have any ideas for where to look for a new one, or what model to look for? Someone tell me what to doooooo! Please and thank you.

FO: I Heart Bows Blouse

A bow and hundreds of tiny hearts... how can you go wrong?

This was a very quick make, based off of New Look 6107 and inspired by the many loose-fitting, floaty blouses I've seen in the blogosphere lately.  I had always intended to use this fabric and pattern together, but had planned on a more fitted silhouette.  I don't know why, because it would have worked against the flowy fabric.

I've made a shirt using this pattern before.  This time, I omitted the darts, added a tiny bit of extra width at the hips, added gathers to the CB, and added about two inches in length.  I didn't want to deal with the button-down front, since it uses a facing that I knew would show through the slightly sheer fabric, so I changed it to a center front seam.  This allowed me to use the burrito method (from Jalie 2921) to attach the neck tie.  I love the clean finish it gives.  I used a similar burrito method on the yoke as well.  With that, the french seams, the bias tape at the center of the neckline, and the bias tape finished armholes, the inside is almost as pretty as the outside.

Outside on the left, inside on the right! So pretty!

There wasn't enough fabric for long sleeves, only short ones, and I didn't think that would work with the shape of the top so I left it sleeveless.  It turns out I have very few sleeveless shirts in my closet, so it's actually a nice change.  Plus there's no fiddling to get a cardigan on over it.

Admittedly this is the fourth fifth sixth (oops...) bow neck item in my wardrobe.  BUT, the silhouette of the shirt is completely different from anything else I have, bow or not.  And, well, I like neck bows.  Sue me.

QUICK FACTS
Pattern: New Look 6107
Fabric: "Silk" (I'm skeptical...) from Chic Fabrics - 1.5 yards
Modifications: Lengthened by 2", wider & longer neck tie, omitted darts, sleeveless.  Bias tape finished at the CF.  Neck tie and yoke attached using the burrito method.

MMM Update: Days 8-18

I'm awfully far behind! My last MMM update was for Day 7, and here we are at Day 19.  I've still been rather disorganized about the photos, as evidenced by the unaccounted for Day 8, the out-of-order Day 9, and a couple of nighttime tired shots.

Day 9: Minoru Jacket, LOFT pants, a shirt I don't remember.

Day 10: SPRING! blouse & the bottom of what was formerly this dress.  I hacked off the top, it will get much more wear as a simple skirt.

Day 11: Upcycled dress I never blogged about (reconstructed using Simplicity 2444), and Gap cardigan.  I really love this outfit.

Day 12: Denim Trousers, H&M shirt, Old Navy cardigan.  

Day 13: Skipped.

Day 14: Jalie 2921 top, H&M cardigan, LOFT pants.

Day 15: Chiffon dress, Target cardigan.

Day 16: Azul y Verde dress, Gap cardigan.

Day 17: Artsy Plaid dress, Gap cardigan. 

Day 18: Almost Goldilocks dress.  

So far, MMM has been much easier than last year, which I take as a sign that in the last year I have made garments that fit my needs well.  In my original pledge, I said that I would style something differently than I have in the past each week.  I guess that technically I have done that, but honestly it's been wearing a different colored cardigan with a dress, which isn't really what I had in mind.  What I've discovered is that I like the way I dress and I don't really feel the need to push the style boundaries, if that makes sense.  Plus all I really own is cardigans, so it's hard to use my own wardrobe to style things in a way I normally wouldn't.
Instead of trying to push the style envelope in a way that doesn't really work for me, I'm trying to not repeat any outfits for the month.  So far, so good.
How is your MMM going?

My Loud Linen Laurel up for Readers' Choice!

What a great way to start my day! Colette Patterns announced the 20 Laurel dresses up for the Readers' Choice Award in their contest, and my Loud Linen Laurel is one of them.  There are a bunch of amazing dresses up for the prize, and many, many others in the Flickr Group.

Voting ends on Friday, May 17th at midnight PST - go vote for your favorites!

FO: Artsy Plaid Dress

This dress was part of my winter sewing plans, and I do not know why it took me so long to sew it up! I knew it would fill a huge gap in my wardrobe, and it didn't disappoint.  Since it's black and white it goes with almost all of my cardigans and shoes, but the print keeps it interesting.

I used McCall 6507, a pattern I used once before to make a peplum top.  I wear that top almost once a week, and I know this dress will see at least that much wear.  They are both fantastic for workdays - office appropriate with a sweater, but not too stuffy for an outing after work.

I raised the CB by 1" like last time, and also lengthened the bodice by 1/2".  The waist seam is drafted to sit a little high (intentionally) but I prefer dresses at my natural waist - more flattering, and a belt doesn't slip all over.  Oddly I cut the same size as last time (a 10), but had to take it in two inches at the center back.  I guess next time I'll cut a 6 or 8? I left off the skirt overlay - a little too fussy for me.  I added a skirt lining, to provide a little more oomph, and also to make it an all-weather dress.  Now I can wear it with tights in cooler weather.

Here's how I wore it for MMM Day 7:

Expect to see this one a few more times for Me-Made-May!

QUICK FACTS

Fabric: Rayon challis (haha... must be over half of my me-made wardrobe...) from Fabric Mart and rayon lining from Mood (I think?)

Pattern: McCall 6507

Modifications: raised CB scoop for coverage, lengthened bodice by 1/2", added skirt lining, left off overlay.

MMM Days 1-6

And so it begins.

Day 1:

New Look 6107 skirt with H&M top & Gap cardigan.

Day 2:

I took a photo, I know I did.  I just can't find it.  Sigh.  I wore my New Look 6107 blouse with H&M skirt & Gap cardigan.

Day 3:

Colette Clovers, Sewaholic Minoru and a Loft sweater.

Day 4:

Colette Clovers, Old Navy sweater.

Day 5: 

Agatha Cardigan and dress from Macy's.  

Day 6:

I did wear me-mades yesterday.  Two, in fact - my first Laurel and my Aidez cardigan.  I went to work, was going to take a photo when I got home, then completely forgot and put on my pajamas.  I remembered a few minutes later, but it's really hard to change out of pajamas, you know? So you'll have to trust me on this one.

So clearly I need to get myself organized.  Getting dressed hasn't been as difficult as I anticipated, but apparently keeping track of taking photos is...
Day 7 and a new FO coming tomorrow! Stay tuned.

FO: Sweet as Honey Laurel

This is the last Laurel I made for the contest, and it was a doozy! Thankfully it was all worth it, and it is definitely my favorite.  I did the whole thing in one weekend, including stenciling the fabric, and finished at 11:15pm on Sunday.

I knew that I wanted to do something with fabric paint for a Laurel, but it took a while to come up with something I loved. I knew I wanted something special, something i wouldn't be able to buy. Eventually I settled on these bees and honeycombs, in gold Jacquard Lumiere on seafoam green/blue voile.

I cut a ton of hexagons from cardstock and taped them in groups on the fabric, then used a stiff brush (the key, I think, to fairly clean lines) to apply the paint. I also cut a couple of bee outlines. I love them!

Because the voile was super sheer, I had to underline in white cotton (to keep the color true) and add a lining to make things completely opaque.  The extra steps were annoying, but I really love the bright pink lining with the seafoam (even though no one will see it together but me!).

Fit-wise and length-wise this is somewhere in between my first Laurel and the slimmed down linen version.  I put an invisible zipper in the center back, as the pattern calls for.  I also slimmed down the sleeves, since setting the sleeves in with this pattern has been SO HARD to do without puckering.  To do this, I took a vertical tuck out of the center of the sleeve pattern piece, eliminating about 3/4".  It made a huge difference, and I prefer this slimmed down (and pucker-free) look.

I had a lot of fun creating dresses for the Laurel contest, but I'm definitely ready for a different pattern! I'm pretty happy with how everything came out though; this pattern is a really great canvas for all sorts of different things.

QUICK FACTS
Fabric: Cotton voile from Grey's Fabrics (their Etsy store), white cotton from P&S Fabrics on Broadway, pink rayon lining from Mood.  I squeezed the dress out of 1 yard of each; if you wear a 0-2 in this pattern, it's possible!
Pattern: Colette Laurel
Modifications: Slimmed down in the waist and hips, slimmed down and shortened sleeve.  Underlined & lined.