Saturday, April 13, 2013

FO: Laurel, Take 1


I am Laurel-obsessed.  I have a list of 10+ variations I want to make at some point, and spent one evening after work last week playing with my croquis in GIMP to visualize my top choices.  I finished this one last weekend, am working on a second now, and am hoping to make up a third before the contest ends.  Worst that happens is I have three awesome new dresses.  And the best possibility? Well, have you seen those prizes?!


When I first got this fabric I knew I wanted to make a shift dress, using the striped border and letting the print speak for itself.  Fast forward to a couple months later, and Colette releases the Laurel, so naturally I had to have it.  I did muslin this (as a top), and made a few modifications: bust darts shifted down 3/4", shoulder slope reduced to deal with neckline gaping, and armhole shape altered to deal with pulling across the front.  In the end I cut a 2 bust, 0 waist and hips, and slimmed things down a bit when I used my fashion fabric, taking it in about 1" in the waist and hips.  I left out the zip and can just barely pull it on.  I didn't want to mess with a zipper in this fabric, and you only put on and take off a dress once per day, so I don't mind the bit of wriggling it requires.  A big surprise for me was how well the sleeves fit, other than a little tightness across the front - I can move my arms!


Since the rayon challis I used is so lightweight, I opted to fully line the dress.  The fabric has a fair amount of mechanical stretch lengthwise along the dress, so underlining made me nervous - I was afraid the challis might bag out a little, the lining wouldn't, and then the fabric would be pooling all over.


So I cut a second dress (minus the sleeves) in rayon lining, and sewed the two right sides together at the neckline, understitched, and then flipped it right side out and attached the sleeves.  The dress feels more substantial now without feeling bulky, and this way I can wear it without my tights sticking.  I did a blind hem by hand - annoying, but effective and more invisible than my machine blind hem.


This is a new silhouette for me, and I am a complete convert.  Comfy, not overly boxy, and looks great with tights and heels or boots.


Anyone else have a Laurel in the works?


QUICK FACTS:
Fabric: Rayon challis from fabric.com, lining from Mood.
Pattern: Colette Laurel
Modifications: Altered bust darts, armholes, shoulders for fit.  Added a lining.

56 comments :

  1. I scarcely recognized Laurel, with your (awesome) modifications. Those colors are fantastic, and your blind hem is invisible. Well done.

    If I ever find spare time (doubtful), I totally plan on making a Laurel for the contest. I have it mapped out in my head and everything. Even if I don't, it's certainly fun seeing everyone else's.

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    1. I hope you get time! It's pretty quick to make once the adjustments are done.

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  2. This is amazing! Probably my favorite Laurel I have seen so far! Love the border stripe along the hem - was that part of the printed fabric, or did you add it? Can't wait to see the other ones!!!

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    1. Thank you! The stripe is part of a border on the fabric - there was an additional blue stripe that I ended up cutting off.

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  3. This is too cute! I would love to make a Laurel, but I would have to do some major bust adjustments (I'm barely an A cup ): ). Your fabric is just gorgeous, though! (:

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    1. You should do it! It's only one front pattern piece, so an adjustment shouldn't be too bad (says the girl who has never done one...)

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  4. I love this! That fabric is great.
    I've just cut out the laurel pattern pieces and am thinking about which variation to try first... Maybe pockets, or the bib front?
    Can't wait to see your next versions!

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    1. Thanks, Sue! Can't wait to see yours too!

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  5. That fabric is rad. Love the color combo. Smart way to line the dress, too. I haven't really been interested in the Laurel because shift dresses aren't fun for me to alter. But it seems like such a great template and a simple showcase for awesome prints.

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    1. Thanks! It is a great pattern/silhouette for lots of fun modifications.

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  6. Amazing. Such beautiful fabric. You have done a great job.

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  7. That is amazing fabric! You are looking amazing in it! Well done :D


    Bundana
    @ http://www.bundana.blogspot.co.uk

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  8. It looks great! I'm mid muslin and have some pulling above the bust too. May I ask how you adjusted the shape of the armholes to improve this? Thanks heaps, Sarah

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    1. Hi Sarah! Someone on the flickr group had to make the same adjustment - she made a graphic here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/wzrdreams/8621794841/.
      Good luck!

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    2. Thanks so much, yours is just beautiful :)

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  9. One of my absolute favourite Laurel creations yet! Amazing!!! x

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    1. Aw, thank you! Fingers crossed for the contest!

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  10. Gorgeous! The fabric is perfect for a shift. I know what you mean about having a zillion different versions in your head...I've done a wearable muslin of the top and am working on a wearable muslin of the dress. I had to take a bit off the shoulder slope as well to stop neckline gaping. I'm finding the armholes on the dress tighter than on the top for some reason.

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    1. It seems like a common modification based on what I've seen elsewhere. I didn't notice a difference in the armholes, but both seem to be shorter than most other patterns. Since I frequently have to shorten them to increase mobility, this is a good thing!

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  11. Wow, great job! I love this fabric and it works perfectly with the simple pattern.

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  12. Well damn. I had such high hopes when I made my Laurel at the beginning of the contest, and now everyone is making such awesome ones. Haha. Seriously though, this looks great!

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    1. Yours is so great though! Definitely one of my favorites.

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  13. Ooooh such is the awesome power of this dress I immediately tried to find this fabric on fabric.com but couldn't see it sob sob. If you ever see it come back in stock please let me know

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    1. Haha, thank you! I will definitely keep an eye out, though this fabric was a Christmas gift so I'm not sure we'll see it again. If I had enough I'd send you some, but there's not enough for a dress left anymore...

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    2. Aww your so sweet. If there's a designer on the selvedge please do let me know. I won't get my hopes up that its still floating round the internet for me to snaffle! :-)

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  14. I love this! What a great print! And as always, your fit is impeccable! I really, really like this shape on you! I'm working on a Laurel, too, but set it aside to finish up some other projects that I'm on a deadline with.

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    1. Thank you! I can't wait to see yours, I'm sure it will be great as always.

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  15. Your Laurel looks great. The print is so cute and I always love a good border. I am working on a solid colored one.

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    1. Thank you! Border prints are my favorite.

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  16. this is super cute. I really love the fabric and the fit is fantastic. nice work!

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  17. love this dress! the print is great. i'm curious to try the laurel, but colette patterns require so much bust alteration it's pretty far down on my list. yours turned out awesome though!

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    1. Thank you! Colette seems to really work for some and not at all for others...

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  18. Very nice print! You worked with it pretty well!

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  19. Ahh this is just so cute. You are so good at this :)

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  20. Wow gorgeous. That fabric is unreal and the dress looks so great on...hmmm might have to check out the pattern now.

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    1. Definitely make one! But maybe not till after the contest is over... :)

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  21. Love the print-the stripes at the end really add to the dress. I just cut into a Laurel myself. I'm more excited to finish now that I've seen yours!

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  22. woo! love this print! so so perfect its amazing! cant wait to see the others!

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  23. This is really lovely! I love the fabric and the interpretation.

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  24. That fabric is delish! I love the pixel feel to it. Nice use of a border print- it takes this from awesome to mega awesome (yes that is the most 80s sentence ever, I feel)

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  25. This is too cool, Mika. You're definitely in my category of "How the hell could I have tried to ignore this pattern?", because this is just wonderful. I love that you lined it (I too am often cursed with tight-sticking. EEK!) I am obsessed with that print, and the striped border colors you chose are spot-on. Good luck with the contest, and have fun with all future Laurel versions!
    Shelley

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    1. Thank you! Lining was super easy (other than cutting the fabric... yuck.) I would definitely suggest it, really makes it an all season dress.

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  26. Looks awesome! I am trying desperately to fit this pattern, and having trouble. I know you posted you are a B on a good day (me too!) but you didn't mention doing a SBA? My measurements are 31.5, 24.5, 35, and I cut a size 0 with a SBA and got some really wierd things going on with the shoulders (shoulder seam pulling 1 inch toward the back, throwing off the bust fit, which is not a problem I normally have). I'm thinking I either did the SBA wrong, or perhaps I didn't need to do one at all? I'm curious to know what your thoughts are since yours looks so great!

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    1. My bust measurement is 34", so an SBA wasn't necessary. I haven't done one before, so hard to say if that is what is causing your issues. I do have a slight issue with the shoulder seam rolling toward the back - it didn't bother me enough to mention, but I might try a forward shoulder alteration at some point to see if that helps. Maybe something to think about?

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  27. What a fantastic dress - particularly the fabric! I've been looking at some of the Laurel dresses online to try and decide if they'd suit my body shape (and coming round to the idea) - yours is definitely the nicest so far! Having seen some fantastic bright abstract patterned fabric in the shops last time I went fabric shopping, I was even more excited to discover you'd made it out of a slippery slidey rayon - and how you'd got round the problem of lining it. Now to see if the shop still has the fabric!

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