Thursday, July 5, 2012

FO: Check Mate Shirtdress

Oof!  This was definitely one of those pain in the you-know-what projects, but I know I'm going to wear it all the time so it was completely worth the trouble.

Check Mate Shirtdress

I didn't make a muslin (this is where the trouble began), and cut an 8 in the bust and 12 in the waist and hips. I anticipated needing to take in the hips, but I ended up having to take in the whole thing everywhere - I ended up closer to a 6 in the bust (with more taken in here and there at the princess seams), 8 in the waist, and 4 for my non-existent hips.  I also hacked off a good 6" from the hem, and made the waistband about 1/2" shorter to ensure it landed at my waist.  The fabric does have some stretch to it, so if I make it again in a non-stretch woven I'll probably start with a size up overall.  Next time I may also raise the waistline at the back a little more - there's the tiniest bit of pooling back there.

Check Mate Shirtdress

This was my first time trying to match a gingham and my first time doing a lapped zipper, and oh boy does it show.  The matching is decent on my left side, but slightly off on my right.  In some places it's really just completely off, but I'm not sure there's anything I could have done.  I cut the button band, back yoke and waistband on the bias for visual interest and because it meant less matching - what can I say? I'm lazy.


Check Mate Shirtdress

The lapped zipper was a nightmare - I must have ripped out parts of it 5 or 6 times before I decided it was good enough.  The pattern just uses the standard 5/8" seam allowance around the zip, which I think was part of the problem - next time I'll follow Lavender of threadsquare's tutorial and add a bit to one side.

Check Mate Shirtdress

I like the design a lot - the straight skirt feels more work-appropriate to me than the full skirts I prefer on the weekends.  Eventually I'd love a basic black one with sleeves and a full skirt, or a red one with short sleeves and trim. The possibilities are endless.

QUICK FACTS
Pattern: Simplicity 2403 (OOP Project Runway pattern)
Fabric: Stretch cotton gingham from Paron.  It took less than 1.5 yds.
Modifications:  Skipped the button holes and just sewed the buttons on through both layers (again, lazy).

23 comments :

  1. Even though it was a hassle to make, it's a wonderful dress. Perfect for summer and has just the right amount of details.

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  2. Wow, I so admire your ability to make fixes on the fly. It looks wonderful and I think the bias bits add a lot of appeal :) I recently tried a new way of doing lapped zippers and I really liked it. It's on my flickr here:
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/energisedbunny/7453529086/in/photostream
    Who knows, maybe it's the same method as the threadsquare one. It just uses a normal S.A though.
    So many zipper methods to try, so little time!

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    1. Thanks, Johanna. This is actually the way that the pattern had me do the zip, but I think I need the forgiveness of the extra seam allowance.

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  3. I thin it looks great.No way are u a 12 in the waist and hips!! u are tiny!!!!!
    U prob have same or smaller measurements than me. I have learnt to cut a 8 waist (my waist is 70cm, which is "12")

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    1. Thank you, Neeno! I'm definitely going to start cutting down - it's always hard for me to believe there's that much ease built in, but it's true!

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  4. Really, really cute! I like the bias details, too (and it's a bonus that it's less matching)! This is so wearable and sweet!

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  5. It looks super adorable. I wouldn't have thought it caused you so much grief.

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    1. Thanks! I'm glad it's not obvious.

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  6. I saw this on BurdaStyle. Very nice! Looks like it fits you very well.

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  7. Love it - I need one!!! The bias for the waist and button placket is perfect!

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    1. You should make one! You'd look great in it.

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  8. Dude, whatever! That dress turned out totally cute! I love gingham & I love when it has little bias details. So classic :D

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  9. I love it...because I actually made this in a red and white check myself but the double-breasted version. With bias details in the pocket/hip, back yoke and midriff bands, LOL!

    Great minds and all that...Never reviewed it but I still wear it so maybe it's not too late. I love your version, so cute!

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    1. I'd love to see the dress! I checked your blog, but my french is a little rusty!

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  10. This is the coolest dress - you look HOT in it!

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  11. thanks for sharing.

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